Tag Archives: Israel

Israel Trip, Day 12 (and then home!)

This art gallery had an interesting storefront

This art gallery had an interesting storefront

Before the three months statute of limitations expires on this trip, let me tell you about our last full day in Israel. In the morning we had some free time to go to the Old City in Jerusalem, shopping being the name of the game. I was disappointed that we couldn’t find one food stand that we’d seen the day before; they had something that looked very much like the “empanadas árabes” that we eat in Córdoba, Argentina. Apparently the stand opened later. During Ramadan, Muslims don’t eat until after sundown; they often open their stores to let them sleep in after evening festivities.

Gate into the Old City

Gate into the Old City

On the way back to the hotel, Tony, Carolina, and I made a quick stop at a site called the Garden Tomb. It’s a tomb that was found that could look like where Jesus was buried. It’s almost certain that it’s not Jesus’ actual tomb, but it makes an interesting visit.
Garden tomb

Garden tomb

Garden tomb

A stone like that that would have covered Jesus' tomb

A stone like that that would have covered Jesus’ tomb

The garden tomb

The garden tomb


Then we went to an unusual archaeological site. A few years back, the Muslims got permission to do some renovations on the Temple Mount. Instead of the small changes that were authorized, they bulldozed a large section and dumped the dirt away from the site. Archaeologists were outraged… until they realized that they now had access to materials from the temple mount. It was all in a jumble with no respect for strata, but treasures could be found by sifting through the dirt.

The Temple Mount Sifting Project enlists the aid of tourists to go through what was discarded. Much of what is found has no value. However, just last month a young boy found a 3000-year-old cone-shaped stone seal.

Temple Mount Sifting Project

Temple Mount Sifting Project

It’s an interesting process. First, you get a bucket of dirt.

Selecting a bucket

Selecting a bucket

Then you empty it onto a large sieve, rinsing out the bucket with water to make sure nothing is left behind.

What is on the sieve is carefully rinsed with water, then the sifting begins.

Dirt is placed on sieve and washed; bucket is rinsed

Dirt is placed on sieve and washed; bucket is rinsed

What is found is put into six categories: pottery, mosaic, stone, bone, metal, and glass. Once the tourists have gone through the contents of the bucket, they call a worker over to inspect their work.

Sorting into six categories

Sorting into six categories

Archaeologist checks the work of some of our group

Archaeologist checks the work of some of our group

Then the sorted things of value are put into buckets.

Placing sorted materials into buckets

Placing sorted materials into buckets

The rest of the dirt is discarded, and the process begins anew.

Discarding the sifted dirt

Discarding the sifted dirt

Once in a while you find something that the experts find interesting. That’s fun!

"This is interesting"

“This is interesting”

Finding a treasure!

Finding a treasure!


After we left the dig, we went to the Gallicantu church. Built at the site of Caiphas’ house, it’s name means “rooster crows”; it remembers Peter’s denial of Jesus. Underneath the church is the Holy Pit, where tradition says Jesus was held. It’s a dungeon with holding cells, complete with equipment for flogging prisoners.

Door to the Gallicantu church, remembering Peter's denial of Christ

Door to the Gallicantu church, remembering Peter’s denial of Christ

Dungeon where Caiphas' house stood; ropes in place for flogging victims

Dungeon where Caiphas’ house stood; ropes in place for flogging victims

Tradition says this was where Jesus was imprisoned

Tradition says this was where Jesus was imprisoned

Outside are the Holy Steps, where Jesus would have walked several times on the night of his arrest. Those steps were very moving to me, for that’s one significant place in Jesus’ life that isn’t covered over with a church. I could imagine him walking those steps on his last night before the crucifixion.

It's almost certain that Jesus walked these steps several times after his arrest

It’s almost certain that Jesus walked these steps several times after his arrest

It's almost certain that Jesus walked these steps several times after his arrest

It’s almost certain that Jesus walked these steps several times after his arrest

This was one place that I found to be very moving

This was one place that I found to be very moving


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We then went to the Herodium. This was one of Herod’s fortress palaces. It was where he chose to be buried. He wanted to have a palace that could see both the temple in Jerusalem and the Dead Sea. To accomplish this, he chopped off the top of one mount and placed it on the one where he was building. Even at that, he didn’t reach his goal.

You can see the mountain Herod took dirt from to elevate the Herodium

You can see the mountain Herod took dirt from to elevate the Herodium

The Herodium was an imposing fortress that would have dominated the area around, including Bethlehem. No one would have questioned who was the King of the Jews.

Swimming pool at the Herodium

Swimming pool at the Herodium

The Herodium

The Herodium

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From there, we went to Bethlehem. We made a quick stop at the souvenir shop we had visited, then went to a restaurant for a final banquet.

Final banquet

Final banquet

We had gifts for our guide and our bus driver

We had gifts for our guide and our bus driver

Carolina and me with Nedal, our guide

Carolina and me with Nedal, our guide


Some were flying out that night; we had a flight to catch the next morning. We had been told that we could take a group taxi to the airport, that it would be quick and relatively inexpensive. The girl at the hotel was skeptical, urging us to call a private taxi. We went for the group taxi.

What we didn’t realize was that the driver would pick us up first, then go pick up the other 8 or so people who would be in the van. We got an interesting middle-of-the-night tour of residential Jerusalem. To make it more interesting, the driver didn’t seem to speak much English and charged us way more than we expected. We would have been much better off taking a private taxi.

Flight home was good. It was sad to leave Israel, but it’s always good to go home.

Israel Trip, Day 11

Western (Wailing) Wall

Western (Wailing) Wall


No, the trip report isn’t over; I’m just falling behind. Let me tell you what we did on Day 11, back in June.

This day was spent in Jerusalem. It was an overwhelming day, as we saw much more than we could really take in.

We went first to the Old City, walking what is known as the Via Dolorosa or the Via Crucis. These are the traditional “stations of the cross,” the places where it’s believed that Jesus walked on his way to the cross.

These pitchers in our hotel are for handwashing; two handles so that you can switch and not defile the hand you already washed

These pitchers in our hotel are for handwashing; two handles so that you can switch and not defile the hand you already washed

Street in the Old City

Street in the Old City

Via Dolorosa


We finished up at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The building includes what is believed by many to be Golgotha, the site of the crucifixion, as well as the site of Jesus’ burial. On our trip, we saw many places where it was obvious that tourism was down. However, that wasn’t true in Jerusalem, especially at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The place was packed, and it wasn’t easy to get around to see the different sites.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Traditional site of Jesus' burial

Traditional site of Jesus’ burial

I’ve included a picture of the ladder that I wrote about on Heartlight a few weeks ago. That ladder is a symbol of the division that exists, not just in Christianity, but in the care of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The fighting between the orders represented there is so great that none of the Christians keeps the key to the building; it’s overseen by a Moslem.

The Immovable Ladder

The Immovable Ladder

I hate to write so little about such important places, but as I said, it’s really all to overwhelming. Plus many have written much more eloquently about the Via Dolorosa than what I could do. I’m admittedly skeptical about some of the traditions, but it was still moving to be in the area where Jesus spent the last few hours before his crucifixion.


From there we went to the Tower of David museum. We were supposed to go there on Friday evening, but they close early for the Sabbath, and we arrived too late.

Tower of David museum

Tower of David museum


Next stop was the Western Wall of the Temple, also known as the Wailing Wall. This was part of the base of Herod’s Temple, the temple itself having been destroyed by the Romans.

Western (Wailing) Wall

Western (Wailing) Wall

There is a mosque built on the temple mount, commemorating the place where Abraham offered Isaac; it’s called the Dome of the Rock. That’s the famous golden dome you see in the Jerusalem skyline. Because it was the time of Ramadan, no non-Muslims were allowed up there.

Western (Wailing) Wall

Western (Wailing) Wall

The Western Wall was a moving place. It was especially interesting to see the bar mitzvahs going on; there were lots on the day we were there. Big celebrations with singing and dancing; kids throw candy at one another. Much of our group was distressed by the fact that men and women are separated at the Wailing Wall; this meant the women had to watch the ceremony from across a partition. Let’s just say that there wasn’t a lot of cultural sensitivity in our group upon seeing that.

Women watching bar mitzvahs

Women watching bar mitzvahs

It’s very telling to me that there’s one part of the wall where men and women do celebrate together; they had to create that space for American Jews. Yes, it’s evident that our culture has a particular hang-up over gender issues.

Showing the length of one of the stones from Herod's temple construction

Showing the length of one of the stones from Herod’s temple construction


We next went to the southern steps of the temple. This is quite possibly the site where Peter preached on Pentecost. Down below are dozens of mikvehs, ritual baptismal pools. Plenty of room to baptize thousands of people.

Southern steps of the temple

Southern steps of the temple

A mikveh (baptismal pool) at the temple

A mikveh (baptismal pool) at the temple


We then went to Hezekiah’s tunnel, the passageway King Hezekiah created to provide a reliable supply of water for the city, even during times of siege. It’s fascinating to walk through these dark, wet tunnels. We came out at a pool called the Pool of Siloach. We went through the tunnel just behind a group of school girls; a couple of them panicked and refused to go through. I was sorry they missed it and hope they get to go back sometime.

Hezekiah's tunnel

Hezekiah’s tunnel

Hezekiah's tunnel

Hezekiah’s tunnel

Hezekiah's tunnel

Hezekiah’s tunnel

Notice how high the water came on me… and I'm not short!

Notice how high the water came on me… and I’m not short!

Tony among the schoolgirls at the Shiloach Pool

Tony among the schoolgirls at the Shiloach Pool

Shiloach Pool

Israel Trip, Day 10

The tree that gives the Olive Tree Hotel its name

The tree that gives the Olive Tree Hotel its name

Back to the travelogue of our June trip… our tenth day in Israel was a Sunday. We were staying in the Olive Tree Hotel in Jerusalem, not far from the old city.


We went first to the Mount of Olives. Near where the bus let us off we saw a room full of ossuaries, the boxes where they would put the bones of the dead. We walked down to the Dominus Flevit church, traditional site where Jesus was to have wept over Jerusalem. Along the way we saw groups carrying palm branches, re-enacting the triumphal entry. The altar of the Dominus Flevit building has an image of a chicken gathering chicks under her wing; worshippers see the temple mount and the city behind the altar.

Dominus Flevit (Jesus Wept)

Dominus Flevit (Jesus Wept)

Seal on altar of the Dominus Flevit church

Seal on altar of the Dominus Flevit church


I was surprised to see how close the Mount of Olives and Gethsemane were to the Temple Mount. Hadn’t realized how the temple would have dominated your view while there.

Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives

Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives

Skyline of Jerusalem

Skyline of Jerusalem


Mustard seeds

Mustard seeds

From there we made our way to Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations (Church of the Agony), built on the traditional site where Jesus was to have prayed in the garden. There is a large stone inside that is the focal point of the church.

Church service in Gethsemane

Church service in Gethsemane

One of my favorite things came next. We had reserved a private part of the garden for our Sunday service. It was a garden mainly of olive trees, looking much the way Gethsemane would have looked when Christ was there. It was very moving to take the Lord’s Supper in that place.

Garden of Gethsemane

Garden of Gethsemane

Gethsemane means olive press

Gethsemane means olive press


Next we went to the Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book. We were able to visit with Dr. Adolfo Roitman, who is the curator of the Shrine of the Book and the Dead Sea Scrolls that are housed there. He is Argentine and was able to visit with our group in English and Spanish. I got to interview Dr. Roitman in Spanish for the radio program that I do.

We couldn’t take pictures inside, but the documents housed there are very interesting. The highlight, of course, was seeing some of the Dead Sea Scrolls that were on display.

Dr. Adolfo Roitman

Dr. Adolfo Roitman

The Shrine of the Book. It's shape mimics that of the tops of the canisters of the Dead Sea Scrolls

The Shrine of the Book. It’s shape mimics that of the tops of the canisters of the Dead Sea Scrolls

Model of Temple at the Shrine of the Book

Model of Temple at the Shrine of the Book

Scale model of ancient Jerusalem

Scale model of ancient Jerusalem

Two Argentines: Carolina with Dr. Roitman

Two Argentines: Carolina with Dr. Roitman

Israel Trip, Day 9

Wadi David

Wadi David

We’re coming up on 3 months from when we made the trip, and I’m still working on this travelogue. We left the Dead Sea and traveled to the beautiful Wadi David, also known as En Gedi. This is one of the areas where David hid while fleeing from Saul. It’s a beautiful oasis with lots of caves, an ideal place of refuge. The waterfalls and freshwater pools are quite lovely.Israel Day 9 - 008

Waterfall at Wadi David

Waterfall at Wadi David

Waterfall at Wadi David

Waterfall at Wadi David

Collecting water at Wadi David; water was our favorite souvenir

Collecting water at Wadi David; water was our favorite souvenir

After seeing the large number of caves, it’s easier to see how God’s hand was involved when Saul chose to relieve himself in the very cave where David was hiding.

Caves at Wadi David

Caves at Wadi David

Caves at Wadi David

Caves at Wadi David

There were many hydrax, and we saw a few ibex up on the cliffs. We also got to examine some acacia trees; they were important in biblical times both for their wood and for the “wild honey” produced by their sap.

Hyrax (rock badger)

Hyrax (rock badger)

Hyrax sunning himself

Hyrax sunning himself

Acacia tree

Acacia tree

Ibex on the hilltop

Ibex on the hilltop

We then went to Qumran, in the area where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. We learned about the community there at Qumran and saw some of the ruins.

Cave at Qumran

Cave at Qumran

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Marker pointing to cave where some scrolls were found

We traveled to Jerusalem with the intention of visiting the Citadel of David. However, the museum had closed early due to the Sabbath. Instead, we traveled to Bethlehem, visiting the Church of the Nativity.This is one of the sites identified as Jesus’ birthplace; they have marked the traditional location as well as a nearby manger.

Jerusalem

Jerusalem

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Traditional site of Jesus' birth

Traditional site of Jesus’ birth

Manger

Manger

As we were entering the church, a Greek Orthodox funeral procession was leaving. They walk through the streets carrying the body before proceeding to the cemetery.

Greek Orthodox funeral procession

Greek Orthodox funeral procession

St. Jerome, translator of the Latin Vulgate. He did his work in Bethlehem.

St. Jerome, translator of the Latin Vulgate. He did his work in Bethlehem.

We also visited a souvenir shop run by Palestinian Christians. That’s the main way that Christians support themselves in Bethlehem. When Israel closes access to the city, it’s devastating for the Christian population.

Souvenir shop in Bethlem. The owner is a grandson one of the men who received the Dead Sea Scrolls from the Bedouins

Souvenir shop in Bethlem. The owner is a grandson of one of the men who received the Dead Sea Scrolls from the Bedouins

Day 8 in Israel (and Jordan)

The crescent moon that signals the beginning of Ramadan

The crescent moon that signals the beginning of Ramadan

(In June, Carolina and I got to make a trip to Israel and Jordan. I’m taking some time to write about some of what we saw)One thing that I forgot to mention last time was the fact that Ramadan began while we were in Jordan. Faithful Muslims neither eat nor drink from sunrise to sunset. When we were coming down from the Monastery at Petra, one vendor, “I can’t drink anything. I’m doing Ramadan.” The young boy working with her said, “I’m not! Come have some tea with me.” And he served me a cup of tea. To go without water in such hot weather is really a sacrifice.

Israel Day 8 013

Every hotel room had a sign showing the direction of Mecca


We left Jordan and re-entered Israel down near Eilat, on the Red Sea. The two preachers that we had to leave behind, Tony and Isaac, were able to rejoin us there. We took a minute to dip our toes in the Red Sea. One thing we did on this trip was to gather water samples from as many different places as possible.

Getting water from the Red Sea

Getting water from the Red Sea

On the shores of the Red Sea

On the shores of the Red Sea

Sign for Beersheba, the traditional southern tip of Israel. "From Dan to Beersheba"

Sign for Beersheba, the traditional southern tip of Israel. “From Dan to Beersheba”

The type of wilderness the Israelites wandered in (minus the highway)

The type of wilderness the Israelites wandered in (minus the highway)


From Eilat, we drove up to Masada. When I was a teenager, Bill Humble from Abilene Christian came and presented some slides at our church several different Sundays. One Sunday he talked about Masada; I’ve been waiting since then to finally get to visit this desert fortress. It was fortified by Herod, then used by the Zealots as their last real spot of resistance after the fall of Jerusalem.

Snake path at Masada

Snake path at Masada

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The story is a compelling one. Basically, the defenders held out for a long time, while the Romans built a siege ramp up to the fortress. On the night that the wall was breached, the Romans retired to their camps to ready themselves for the final assault the next day. The Jewish defenders decided not to go into slavery; they chose suicide instead. When the Romans took the fortress, they found that the Zealots were dead. (Supposedly some women survived by hiding in a cistern)
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Ruins at Masada

Ruins at Masada

Historians question the accuracy of the Masada legend, but that doesn’t take away from the impressiveness of the place. I wish we’d had more time there. We arrived shortly before closing, and our guide chose to wax eloquent with stories about the Dead Sea rather than give us time to explore the fortress. Still, that’s one item off my bucket list.

Ruins at Masada

Ruins at Masada

Seemingly the lots that were drawn to determine who would be the last to die at Masada

Seemingly the lots that were drawn to determine who would be the last to die at Masada

Lines in the dirt around Masada show where the Romans camped during the siege

Lines in the dirt around Masada show where the Romans camped during the siege

Siege ramp Romans used to attack

Siege ramp Romans used to attack

Tony Fernández at Masada

Tony Fernández at Masada


From Masada we went to the Dead Sea. The mineral content of the Dead Sea is so high that they say that nothing will sink in the Dead Sea. They also warn you not to get the water in your eyes or mouth, so we were quite careful while floating there.

It’s not every day that you can say you’ve been in Jordan and Israel, visited Masada, and gotten your feet wet in both the Red Sea and the Dead Sea.

The Dead Sea

The Dead Sea

Floating in the Dead Sea

Floating in the Dead Sea

Floating in the Dead Sea

Floating in the Dead Sea

Sundown by the Dead Sea

Sundown by the Dead Sea